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8:20 A.M. Fatty American breakfast again. In the lobby the Muzak played an instrumental of "Stormy Weather." Some teenage girls were also singing it at the Seattle airport yesterday.

We were picked up by "Sandy," the tour guide arranged at the airport. She took us by air conditioned taxi to the Wat Phra Kaew. She was typically thin, with a broad smile, hinting at puzzlement and fascination with us (J was talking a mile a minute, following the drive with a street map, asking questions while she tried to deliver her canned speech on history of Bangkok). She wore a mustard-yellow long-sleeved print blouse, black stretchy short knit skirt. Her fingers hyperextended gracefully, reminding me of Thai dancers, architecture -- a general aesthetic.

Temperature by my watch: 94 degrees-F, with clouds and occasional drops. No sun till afternoon.