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Each day we travel lighter. Day 1, I had a full jacket and pack. Day 2, the pack lightened considerably. Day 3, I sent the pack with the truck. Today, I'm taking camera and recorder and all other nonessentials from jacket.

Squatting. I don't think my Achilles tendons are long enough. I can't o it flat-footed -- unstable.

Animals. chickens everywhere. Hens and chicks, more independent juveniles (including young roosters who threaten each other to cock fights and finally back down), and adult roosters, who start their calling as early as 2:30 A.M. -- their calls to each other reverberate through the valley. Horses -- a sign of wealth. Pigs. Pointy-eared dogs (pointy snouts, too) in various shades of black and tan. Toyota trucks -- another sign of prosperity.

15 km trek to Akha village -- easy rolling countryside on roads. Temp was in 70's most of the way, overcast, misty and breezy -- making for an enjoyable hike. Pickup trucks to Mai Sae by Lisu headman and his son. Long wait for bus. Chiang Rai -- shower! Filthy clothes to laundry. We lunch sumptuously and toast to our successful journey.