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Trip along Chao Phya River to Klong Bangkok Noi (canal) and small floating market in Thonburi.

Note on emission controls. bus was stopped by policeman who made some complaint about exhaust pipe. Driver and porter got out. Guide said they would pay off officer "under table." Bigger bus companies make a lump sum bribe every month to avoid getting hassled.

"Sawankhalok" celadon fruttera: priced at 4500 baht. J tempted, but on closer exam , noted glazing disappeared near rim and the hint of dull brush stroke. Sales girl tapped and noted different sounds between rim and bowl. Ergo: restoration job, worth the bargain price.

The store. Pan Taptim LP -- found only via the antique guidebook. Had to walk down the beans and Spam aisle of a large grocery store to back, up a stairs, through the book and notions section to a 15 x 15 shop -- good buys -- necklaces, betel nut accessories, sawankhalok, etc.