Bordertowns. The zone between safety and surprise, anxiety and adventure. Desperate, dangerous places where smugglers and refugees trade anything for hard cash. 

Peshawar, on the western edge of Pakistan, is the gateway to Afghanistan and one of those turbulent crossroads. How we got there is a long story. I'll only say that we were about as ragged as two travelers could be. We set off for the bazaar because what else was there to do? Peshawar is not about museums and restaurants; it's about politics, guns, and cash. The air is sooty and the pavement in disrepair, but we trudged off. [Continue>>>]

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